So it looks like they’re using a photo booth so they’re using a 123D Catch like software to create the 3D models then they’re using a powder sintering printer so they can print in full color, which is going to be the costliest and slowest part of the whole process. To be clear I don’t think this isn’t printed as …
Well, there go my plans
So the plan for this past long weekend were to switch filament, test the diameter, finish work on my new type TARDIS ring, test a few models so I can upload them to thingiverse (like K-9 here), and gear up for a week of producing chess sets for sale. The short version is that my Replicator is broken again. It appears …
Enclosing the Replicator part 1
Enclosing the replicator is the best way to prevent drafts and other environmental elements from effecting your prints. With that in mind I bought a $10 acrylic sheet and a $3 tool. I printed out side clips and front hinges. Then I just waited. Since the weather’s been so warm my prints weren’t really feeling it. However, this weekend it was raining …
New TARDIS ring Prototype 1
The goal was to make something considerably lower profile than the old TARDIS rings that stick out from your finger a centimeter. These ones you could actually put in your jeans pocket while wearing. However there was some detail loss on the edge of the open door. I guess I’ll just have to shut the door which I’m not happy …
3D Printing Tidbit 7 – Cleaning the nozzle
My nozzle was getting covered with the burnt remains of past prints and I couldn’t think of any easy way to clean it. When I saw this suggestion on the Makerbot Google group my initial reaction was “Naaaa, that can’t be a good idea.” But it is, and it works. Get a blob of a past failed print. If you’ve got …
Somewhere over the rainbow
My new filament arrangement because putting on and taking off the filament on the back of the replicator was getting tedious. The rollers are a combination of Mano1979’s and gyronictonic’s spool holders. I prefer Mano1976’s by the way. Easier to slide around the table. I chose those ones becaues I found a good deal on 30 count 608 bearings online. The hard …
Flattening the bottom
Making flat bases or sides is important when 3D printing, but can be tedious at time. If you’re “eye balling” the measurements you may find your eye isn’t as accurate as you would otherwise hope. But there’s a simple way to insure that your side is flat and all points are on the same plate. Step 4 Import your STL model into …
How not do dehydrate your filament
I got a few rolls of filament, one from Protoparadigm (black) one from Makerbot (white) and both pre-swollen. 1.88m diameter plus or minus. Way too thick to use with my existing filament if I want to use both extruders at once to double output. The difference would mean the pieces from one would mate too tight or the other too loose. And …
Nosparkspleasenosparksnosparksnosparks
I’ve been putting this off because last time I took apart my print head… disaster struck. And while I knew that the two coldn’t be related I was still a bit gun-shy. However, after being unable to restock my chess sets for a day I decided it couldn’t put off my Makerbot maintenance any longer. So I disassembled my extruder head, got …
Battle of the Levelers
I managed to get my build plate level enough through trial and error, but I noticed when I was printing large batches of TARDIS rings that it wasn’t quite right. On the advice of Andrew Morrow I decided to buy the parts to build a leveling jig. Then I noticed there was a version that just snaps on to the …